Modified Triumph TR6 body work

Chassis, Body & hardtop (started Jun '02, nearly done)

Chassis work includes:
Gussets welded to front lower-arm pickup points
Gussets welded to differential carriers
Gussets welded to rear spring plates and towers
Gussets welded to trailing-arm support triangle
Continuous weld applied to all spot welds
Media blasted and powdercoated black

Click thumbnails to enlarge.

Jun '02: The stripping commences. All undercoat was removed. Fresh from having the tub powder-coated.

Fenders hung, excess tabs removed, holes filled. "Shell Rally" fender vents. Original Shell Rally vents were honeycombed. Later interpretations use 4 or 5 slats. I chose 3 hand-formed horizontal louvers per side; 3+3=6, so I like the symmetry. Vertical louvers are too Cobra-like, and are not in tune with the strong horizontal lines of the TR6. The louvers will be highlighted with thin chrome beading, much like Aston Martin uses on their fender vents.

TR250 donor "Power Bulge". This one is sure to offend TR4a/5/250 purists. Careful observers will note that the bulge is actually positioned 8" ahead of the postion that the bulge occupies in TR4a/5/250. This was done to position the air intake slightly forward of the air cleaner of the front Weber DCOE, in a region of positive air pressure. The front of the bulge is cut about 4" behind the leading edge, where a screen will be placed. Note the shaved indicators. I'll use TR3 indicators instead. Hood was painted in Dec '03.

Oct '03: Some men have mistresses; mine is black.

I used over 1 gallon of Dupont Centari 99A, a single-stage acrylic enamal, with hardener. This gave me 4-5 coats, except on the rear fender and doors which needed 6-7 coats. I'll let it dry for several months before buffing.

Why single-stage and not two-pack? Single-stage is the choice of show winners for good reason. When the layer of paint oxidises or is sun damaged, it can be simply removed by polishing, something that cannot be done with a clear coat. Single-stage paints can be polished on a yearly basis, and should last around 15 years. Besides, all two-stage paints never look black to me; they are either a brown-black or a blue-black. Centari 99A is black-black.

Tasks Completed
Undercoat removed
Media blasted, and powdercoat tub "mower black"
Paint with single-stage, Centar 99A black
Dechromed
Shave redundant body tabs
Reinforce body-shell panels for Tilton pedals
Most holes filled
TR4 "Shell Rally" fender vents
TR4 door locks
TR250 power bulge,
Shaved front and side-markers

Back to restoration page.

Last update: 2 Dec, 2003

Jun '02: The stripping commences.	All undercoat was removed.	Fresh from having the tub powder-coated.
Fenders hung, excess tabs removed, holes filled.	"Shell Rally" fender vents. Original Shell Rally vents were honeycombed. Later interpretations use 4 or 5 slats. I chose 3 hand-formed horizontal louvers per side; 3+3=6, so I like the symmetry.	Vertical louvers are too Cobra-like, and are not in tune with the strong horizontal lines of the TR6. The louvers will be highlighted with thin chrome beading, much like Aston Martin uses on their fender vents.
TR250 donor "Power Bulge". This one is sure to offend TR4a/5/250 purists. Careful observers will note that the bulge is actually positioned 8" ahead of the postion that the bulge occupies in TR4a/5/250. This was done to position the air intake slightly forward of the air cleaner of the front Weber DCOE, in a region of positive air pressure.	The front of the bulge is cut about 4" behind the leading edge, where a screen will be placed. Note the shaved indicators. I'll use TR3 indicators instead. Hood was painted in Dec '03.	Oct '03: Some men have mistresses; mine is black.