Front brake conversion (nearly complete)

For front brakes, common options are 11" vented Jaguar (XJ), or the 4-pot Toyota truck calipers, Both
are bolt-on options, although the Jag brakes does require new hubs. Jag calipers are getting hard to come
by, and rebuilding them is a PITB (as with any Jag part!). Both weigh a ton, and adding to unsprung weight is
the bane of this builder.

I have researched "bolt-on" combinations of vented disks/hats and after-market 4-pot calipers
such as AP, Wilwood, Outlaw, etc. Unfortunately, after extensive work, there is nothing off-the-shelf
that will bolt up. Some custom work is required in either:

Clearly the easiest is to machine is a custom hat, which is what I did.  I finished up with a drilled

1.00" vented 11.5" diameter rotors mounted to custom hats, and the Wilwood Billet Superlite

4-pot calipers bolt to the stock mounts.  I am using Southwick Machine alloy hubs.  The beauty

with their hubs is the use of uprated stub axles that together with a bearing spacer to preload the

bearing races, means less deflection (and hence pedal drop) under hard braking through a corner.

Of course, the alloy hubs and calipers are considerably lighter than stock, but what I lose in weight I

made up in using the large vented rotors. The whole system fits under stock 15" wheels.

I will not be using vacuum assist. The rear-disks necessitate the use of two master cylinders
and balance bar because of the lack of provision for an emergency brake. I welded a plate to the

firewall to cover the unsightly holes left by the booster, and mounted up two 7/8" Wilwood

master cylinders.  I welded a balance bar to the stock brake pedal increasing the pedal ratio

from the miserable 3.7 or so to around 4.5.  As of July 2006, I've not road-tested this combo yet,

which may necessitate swapping out one of both of the masters, changing the pedal ratio, etc.

I have a fondness for Porterfield R4S pads front/rear, and will stick with them.

See my blog for updates.

Stay tuned. Who knows, I may sell what I find as a kit.

Rear-disk brake conversion (finished)

All machine work by Mike Munson (fasttrs at mindspring dot com).

Machined brackets widen the track by 5/8". There is plenty of spline left on the stock or Corvair
halfshafts to do this. Of course, widening the track improves latral stability, so this will have to be
compensated for. This will not foul with the Revington coil-overs. Click on thumbnails to enlarge.

         

Shopping list.

Disks are from a Datsun 280Z (rear). Brembo has solid drilled/slotted 290mm diameter, 10mm thick replacements, $170/pr.
Wilwood Billet Dynalite calipers about $130 ea. from Summit Racing (pictures show Dynalite II)
Proportioning valve about $40, from Wilwood.
Earls fittings 2/982203 (aluminum), or 2/962203 (steel)

The calipers come in two sizes 1.38"  and  1.75". The size you run will depend on what kind
of brakes you run up front.

Back to my TR6 restoration page

Last update: 27 Dec 2003.