My own work here involved a complete front-end rebuild, blasting all parts, replacing all fasteners with AN or Grade 8, bead-blasting and painting all suspension parts, quick-ratio steering rack (2.5 turns lock-to-lock), replacing tie-rods and trunnion/trunnion bolt. In addition, the suspension was modified using Koni shocks, front Moss Motors "competition springs" (blue with white stripe, 9" free-length and 390 lb/in), and Prothane poly bushings. The Prothane bushings are somewhat "softer" (ie more compliant) than the typical black poly bushings, which I feel make for a much more comfortable ride. Using these springs, the front-end was considerably lowered but still allowing plenty of fender-clearance for my 205/70 tyres on 15"x7" Panasports. Standard poly bushings were used on the front sway bar.
Alloy hubs from Southwick Machine are used.
Clean and powder/ceramic-coat all suspension pieces, fit Corvair hubs. GoodParts bushings for the rear trailing arm! Moss Motors rear "competition springs" (blue with white stripe, 10.25" free-length and 420 lb/in), Neil Revington's coil-over conversion kit. This kit places a very short AVO externally-adjustable shock absorber inside the owner-supplied coil spring. Some simple welding is required to adopt the top of the shock to the coil tower, and to bolt a mount to the trailing arm. The kit also includes extra gusseting that is welded to the shock tower for stiffening.
Many texts on anti-sway bars for the TR6 suggest beefing up the front bar on the TR6 and adding a Addco rear sway bar.
By using Revington's coil-over conversion, the mounting ear
for the hydraulic-lever shock is now free to do other
duties, such as support the end links from a sway bar.
Neil Revington suggests using his 7/8" rose-jointed front bar, and 3/4" (competition) or 5/8" (fast-road) rose-jointed rear bar. His explanation of how the Addco rear bar which mounts under and behind the trailing arm does little to transfer loads to the outside of a cornering TR6 makes sense. Besides, the rear Addco bar takes up valuable ground clearance on a lowered car, and will be dragged over every bump in the road.
Neil's solution is pretty expensive. I had Saner Fabrication
in Florida fabricated a rear
over-the-diff 0.625" swaybar for me. $212, including s/h and plating, it uses rod-ends and is
exactly the same (as far as I can tell) as Neil's swaybar. A copy of the swaybar dimensions that
I gave to Saner can be found here.